DIY Industrial Coffee Table

Lauren Leigh

Just before starting the blog I made an industrial coffee table for our living room and love the results!!20170708_130801

I found this amazing tutorial from Priscilla Locke and it helped this project come to life.  The only addition I am going to make is adding photos of each piece because this girl and her mama looked like idiots at the hardware store for about 25 minutes.

But before we get started some inspirational photos….


Pipe fitting shopping list

  • 4 – flanges (3/4 inch diameter)
  • 8 – 5″ length pipe (3/4 inch diameter) – These are the vertical pipes
  • 4 – T shaped connectors (3/4 inch diameter) 

  • 4 – 2″ threaded pipe connectors (3/4 inch diameter)
  • 4 – 3/4 to 1 inch pipe reducer 

  • 1 – 14″ long pipe (3/4 inch diameter)- or custom cut to the size you need

After getting all the parts, I recommend putting everything together before taking the time to clean or paint the pipes just to make sure everything fits.


Now that I knew everything fit, then was the fun part, cleaning the pipe parts.

Side note: you may think it would be easier buy the parts in black, not galvanized, but don’t be fooled- the pipes in black are way, way, way greasier. Trust me- don’t do it.  I took a small safety razor blade and a paper towel of Goof Off to remove the very sticky label.

I took a small safety razor blade and a paper towel of Goof Off to remove the very sticky label.


Once all the gunk had been removed, I thoroughly cleaned the pipes with Clorox wipes. I would recommend going over every piece again just to double check that all the reside and grease are off.

I would recommend going over every piece again just to double check that all the residue and grease are off.


When the pieces were cleaned it was time to spray paint!! I used my favorite Rust-Oleum Oil Rubbed Bronze. To complete the whole project it took about a can and a forth. If I ever do a project like this again I will figure out how to use wire to hang the pieces so it’s easier to coat everything evenly.


A family friend of ours is an electrician and got me a spool like the one above. I completed the project before starting the blog….. So I don’t actually have photos of me taking apart the spool or sanding it down 😦 imagesOnce I disassembled the spool, I picked the best flange (the round part) and began sanding it down using my Hitachi circular sander. I sanded both sides down, that way nothing would get caught on the bottom either. The smaller holes in the flange were still very rough, so I used Luke’s Dremel tool with a sanding attachment to clean up the hole. 71ivqtAXgtL._SX522_

Once the spool was sanded and wiped down, it was time for staining.  Since I don’t have photos of the original  I mocked up some pics of me staining.


I always start with some classic gray on a rag, I add a generous amount and coat evenly.


Then I take another corner of the rag and spread some Jacobean stain. The next step  involves mixing the stain, and this takes a bit of experimentation.


What I like to do is add some classic gray to the Jacobean stain then spread it onto the wood I then add gray and Jacobean as needed.20170707_180131

This is an undried version of the final product. I love the color of the wood so much, it;s warm, with no yellow tones, and not too light or too dark. Once the stain has dried I added a coat of polyurethane, then used screws to attach the top to the base.


20170708_130801.jpgI adore the way the table looks together with the clock.


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